The Portofino Linen Shirt: A Classic in Motion

Since its inception, Luca Faloni has aimed to bring to life everlasting garments, using exclusive materials and working with the most prestigious Italian producers. Our linen line is one we’re particularly proud of because linen is the perfect material to enhance the timeless designs we create every day.

With its unique softness and breathability, linen is an environmentally friendly, luxurious material whose production dates back to 3000 BC. It's considered one of the most prestigious textiles because it's exceptionally durable and absorbent, making it ideal for warm weather.

Our linen shirts celebrate the uniqueness of Italian tradition by combining the craftsmanship of its masters with designs that will never get outdated. Here’s the story of one of our most renowned linen designs: the Portofino shirt.

The attention to sartorial details and passion for our craftsmanship only magnify the unique properties of this natural, durable, and breathable textile.

Subtly elegant and sophisticated, our linen textile comes to life in the laboratory of Albini, a legendary manufacturer in Bergamo's province. Founded in 1876 and now in its fifth generation, this family-owned business shares our vision of promulgating the slow fashion philosophy typical of Italian culture.

Together, we bring to life shirts that celebrate the sartorial history of this land, where linen garments have been made for hundreds of years. An ethical, sustainable approach to manufacturing allows us to enhance the know-how and experience of this territory and its craftsmen.

When colouring the yarn, it's crucial to monitor the uniformity of the colour and ensure the yarn absorbs it thoroughly; in this way, the garment will maintain its original colour for years.

The colouring process takes between 8 to 12 hours. It starts with removing the imperfections in the fibre, followed by the actual dyeing, which takes place in autoclaves filled with an alkaline dyeing formula. 

The final step is oxidation, which is necessary to remove the dye that wasn’t absorbed by the fibre.

After dyeing, we check each yarn to ensure the colour has been perfectly absorbed and will stand the test of time.

This step is carried out in the laboratory by highly qualified technicians, using state-of-the-art technology in line with European and international regulations.

Next comes winding the yarn onto a tube. The cylindrical bobbins are all the same length to ensure no flax yarn will be wasted in the process. 

The yarn can easily slide on the loom, thanks to the shape of the cones. Each step of the process is carefully monitored by experienced workers using advanced machinery.

This is the step that precedes the weaving process. All the vertical threads are placed next to each other to bring the desired design to life. 

The bobbins are positioned on creels. The fibres are warped on a large steel cylinder and gradually transferred to a smaller cylinder, which will be loaded on the frame.

This is when the linen fabric truly comes to life. This process requires highly technological weaving looms in a controlled environment and is constantly monitored by experienced artisans. 

Although weaving looms can produce plain fabrics with 640 strokes per minute, with linen and other delicate materials, it won't go faster than 300 strokes per minute.

Sophisticated quality control on the cloth is necessary to guarantee the high standards we aim for. Physical tests are carried out in our laboratories to assess the resistance to tearing and abrasion, and alkaline sweat and washing detergents.

At this stage, artisans can detect and remove any minor defects typical of this natural material. The know-how of the inspectors and the latest technology used for quality control are crucial elements that allow us to only use the highest-quality linen.

Once our exceptional linen cloth is finalised, we use our artisan's knowledge of traditional pattern cutting to expertly cut the cloth into key fundamental pieces to create our iconic design and perfect fit.

An integral part of this classic style is our distinguished one-piece "Paramontura" collar. Designed to create an elegant shape that lasts and has become the Luca Faloni signature for linen shirts. Other rare sartorial details like ‘Giglio’ stitching and precious Australian mother-of-pearl buttons are final touches and a renowned staple in fine Italian shirting.

By combining a timeless design, artisanal tradition and one of the most astounding fabrics, our Portofino shirt embodies the Italian style at its finest: a garment that’s ideal in all situations and will add a classic touch to your outfits for years to come.