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    Wool Trousers: Entering the World of Vitale Barberis Canonico

    Over the years, ancient Italian mills have found a perfect balance between cultural heritage, new technologies and dedication to sustainability. The harmony between these seemingly incompatible elements is possible when deeply rooted traditions and a global perspective meet, making these artisans an example of historical value and innovation.

    In this context, the story of Vitale Barberis Canonico is a celebration of human creativity and modernisation spanning centuries, from its relationship with the Savoy family in the 17th century to the prestigious global brand offering wool of the finest quality we know today. United by the common goal of promoting the finest craftsmanship, Luca Faloni and Vitale Barberis Canonico bring to life wool trousers that honour timeless Italian elegance.

    Detail on the skeins of wool thread
    Detail on the skeins of wool thread

    Passion, Local Tradition and Contact with Nature

    The first records of Barberis Canonico’s mill trace back to 1663, when a sale document between Ajmo Barbero and the Duke of Savoy (of the Italian royal family to be) described the family’s wool dyeing techniques: a process that was safely guarded and handed down from generation to generation. 

    Throughout the centuries, the Barberis Canonico family combined the rich pastoral tradition of Biella with the vibrant innovations brought by the Industrial Revolution first and the advent of electricity later. A company constantly ahead of the curve even back then; their factory was fully automated by the dawn of the 20th century.

    Il Miracolo Italiano rewarded the quality and attention to detail of Vitale Barberis Canonico, which in the years following the Second World War, consolidated its prestigious image worldwide and became one of the most iconic wool mills in the peninsula.

    Since the beginning of the 21st century, Vitale Barberis Canonico has focused on technological innovation and export, celebrating the cultural value of local wool production through excellent craftsmanship.

    Detail of a seamstress working on a garment
    Detail of a seamstress working on a garment

    The Preparation of “Biellese” Wool

    The creation of this iconic wool starts with the washing process. Here, the raw material is prepared for threading using rotating drums that remove all natural residues and impurities. This first delicate step requires pristine water and wool of extraordinary quality.

    During the gilling process, the shortest fibres are removed to preserve the best wool exclusively for the final fabric. The mill uses combing cards and special combs to isolate the finest threads that excel in durability and feel.

    The thread truly comes to life in the spinning phase, when coupled threads are pulled and twisted together to make them more resistant and valuable. The human touch becomes even more essential during the dyeing process as both the yarn dyeing and piece dyeing techniques require careful finishing by experienced artisans.

    Detail of a seamstress working on a garment
    Detail of a seamstress working on a garment

    An exquisite weave is finally coming to life, and the final steps are the most delicate in creating the Biellese wool. Wefting and warping the threads require the intervention of expert hands and cutting-edge technology, as even the slightest overlooked imperfection might affect the quality of the final product.

    The transformation of thread into fabric is a magical moment when the desired pattern for the material takes shape in a few seconds under the supervision of the artisans. Here, the colours and vibrancy of garments are visible in their final form, enhanced by the finest quality of the raw materials.

    The final chapter of this artisanal process is exclusively handmade: a meticulous process to magnify the excellence of the new garment, consisting of eliminating stray threads, stretching and decatising the final product. The result is cloth with unique properties and a handmade feel, unlike any others.

    Luca Faloni wool trousers in navy blue on a chair
    Luca Faloni wool trousers in navy blue on a chair

    Introducing Luca Faloni’s Pleated Wool Trousers

    Lightweight and breathable, Luca Faloni’s pleated wool trousers are designed to be timeless and discrete. The sartorial details and subtle elegance of our trousers perfectly match the refined wool from Vitale Barberis Canonico, celebrating the culture of Italian slow fashion with a unique garment that’s crafted to last.