Linen Masters: From Flax Field to Cloth

Excellent garments have stories to tell. Their rich texture embodies the passion and knowledge of generations, and the class they exude is a celebration of the virtues of craftsmen who dedicated their lives to bringing to life clothes of the finest quality.

Linen is a textile that’s defined the history of menswear, thanks to its unique properties and the deep-rooted connection with humanity, which have used flax fibres to create fabrics since the dawn of time.

Creating the perfect linen clothes is a process that requires knowledge handed down from generation to generation, experienced hands, and a vision: to craft a timeless garment of uncompromising quality.

Over the years, Luca Faloni has developed unique partnerships with artisans and mills in Italy, sharing our same passion for linen excellence. The resulting synergy of Italian heritage and inventiveness is what enhances the qualities of our permanent collection, and today we’ll look at the journey every flax fibre must take to become a magnificent linen cloth.

Flax has defined the European landscape more than any other plant, with endless fields of ethereal blue flowers destined to last only for a day. However, their stalks hide fibres that can last a lifetime: durable, flexible, and natural.

The optimal terrain for flax cultivation can be found in Northern France, Belgium and the Netherlands. In Normandy, in particular, the climatic conditions and proximity to the ocean create exceptional conditions for flax growth, with an ideal alternation of sun, rain and wind.

In this region of Northern France, flax growers have developed techniques defined by generations of innovation and experimentation. The homogeneity of the fields and perfect seeding conditions are only some of the crucial factors taken into account, with experienced hands sowing the flax between mid-March and mid-April. The density of a flax field defines the quality of its fibres: too dense and the stems won’t grow properly; too sparse and the field will be negatively affected by the forces of wind and rain.

In Normandy, we rely on the experience of cooperative Terre de Lin, which ensures the ancient practices of flax growth are preserved and innovated following sustainable standards.

The most delicate phase is harvesting, which happens between July and August. The plant must be pulled out from the ground to maximise the stem's length. The know-how of expert flax growers lies in the knowledge that nature has to take its course: after being pulled out from the ground, the plant is left there, at the mercy of the elements, which naturally activate the process of maceration.

Understanding the right time of removal from the flax field is no trivial task, as the stem requires the perfect amount of rain to become durable and flexible. The process, called retting, can be from two weeks to three months, depending on the weather conditions. Once picked up, the plants are pressed into bales and stored until extraction of the fibres.

The tradition and experience of flax growers allow them to make the most of what nature and innovation offer. The finest linen has a local production, which results in lower transportation emissions and ensures the tradition of local communities is promoted and preserved.

When grown in its original territory, linen production does not require additional water: the optimal alternation of sunny and rainy days in Western Europe guarantees the plant has all it takes to grow tall and sturdy. Additionally, flax plants are not attacked by pests and insects, reducing the amount of pesticides used to the bare minimum.

Finally, linen production improves the quality of the soil. By alternating flax plantations and a different crop, the earth naturally increases productivity by 20%, with the flax debris acting as a fertiliser for the upcoming crop.

A high-quality linen cloth stands on the shoulders of generations of artisans, flax growers, and visionaries who believed in the unique properties of this fibre and used it to create a garment that enhances the tradition and craftsmanship on which linen production is based.

We at Luca Faloni believe a linen cloth should convey a thousand emotions and transcend the ever-changing fashion trends, which is why we collaborate with the most renowned Italian mill to manufacture the garments we envision so that every cloth will radiate the tradition and expertise that brings it to life.