All You Need to Know About Cashmere: A Guide for the "Connoisseur"

Cashmere knitwear has always been at the centre of the Luca Faloni Autumn Winter Collection. 

However, despite its reputation as the finest material for the colder months of the year, cashmere and its unique properties are not always fully understood. Here is our guide covering everything you need to know about this fine material.

Quality cashmere is not only the finest, softest and warmest yarn, but it is also a very durable product, which can easily last 10 years and over 200 wears when taken care of properly. In this article we explore its qualities, the difference between good and bad cashmere, and how to assess it. Lastly, we will explain how to take care of your cashmere knitwear over the years.

This special yarn comes from rare fibres found in the undercoat of cashmere goats. These particular goats live mainly in Mongolia and China, a region characterised by wide temperature fluctuations between seasons.

Cashmere goats adapted to this harsh climate by developing a double fleece: an outer guard layer that protects the undercoat from water, and an undercoat made of ultra-fine hairs with strong insulating properties. This keeps the goats warm in the winter but not too hot in the summer.

"The fibres are collected through a very laborious and difficult process and are then divided

into different quality ranges, based on thickness, length and colour".

Warmth – Its insulation capacity is three times higher than wool (up to eight times for the very best cashmere), making it perfect for maintaining your body temperature. The result is a yarn that keeps you warm but not hot.

Softness – The diameter of cashmere fibres is very small, creating a very fine texture, the softest of all yarns.

No itchiness – For the same reason, the density of fibres are much higher than wool, and therefore the texture is not scratchy. This gives a great feeling when wearing cashmere directly on the skin or when touching a jumper.

Lightness – Given its insulating qualities, cashmere jumpers can be lighter than those made of wool and still keep perfect body temperature.

Shape resilience - Quality cashmere does not shrink when washed correctly, and will retain shape better than wool over the years.

Durability – The best cashmere jumpers can last 10 years when the right care is given to the garment. It is not uncommon to hear of people wearing cashmere jumpers from their grandparents. 

Pilling – This happens when short fibres twist around themselves in areas of the jumper where there is more friction, creating small bobbles. This phenomenon is inevitable due to the presence of shorter fibres and it afflicts expensive cashmere as well.

However, in the latter it should stop after the first few washes, and it should happen much less than with cheaper alternatives (where fibres are much shorter). Don’t worry, normal pilling is easy to remove with a cashmere comb, shaving machines or even simply by hand.

Care – Cashmere fibres are shorter and thinner than most other yarns, therefore you will need to follow the washing instruction to avoid damaging the garment.

First of all, always check the label. What many brands call “cashmere” is just a poor blend between cashmere and wool. This can be much cheaper, but drastically inferior in terms of quality and feel, and more subject to pilling.

Additionally, while a 100% cashmere label can be technically accurate, it is often extremely misleading. Not all cashmere is equal. A jumper made with great cashmere is an investment, which will last a long time. Saving money on cheap options is a mistake that results in a less durable product, which will fall apart after a few washes. Inferior materials and inferior manufacturing translate to a much higher cost per wear.

To an unexperienced eye it is not always easy to differentiate between great and low quality cashmere before the first few washes. Here we analyse what you should look for to make sure you are getting the best cashmere:

Length of fibres: From a technical point of view, quality of fibres depends on their thickness and length. The longer they are, the more resistant and durable the jumper will be, and it will also generate less pilling. Cashmere fibre lengths range from 28 to 42mm. Longer fibres are usually found on the neck and underbelly and are much more expensive.

Thickness of fibres: The lower the thickness, the softer the yarn will be. Fibres’ diameter can range from 15 to 19 microns, with a massive impact on softness. Watch out however for baby cashmere; while some brands use this product for great marketing, it is too fine, compromising its durability.

Touch the jumper to see if it is soft and light and place it on your neck to test if it is itchy or not. Be aware that some cheaper brands disguise the touch by adding resin to make jumpers softer in stores, but this effect will soon disappear. Other brands over-wash them, but this will make the jumpers wear out much faster. Also, try to examine its surface. Excessive initial fluffiness might mean the yarn was spun from shorter and less resistant fibres. Similarly, move your hand on it and see if fibres begin to roll up; this could be due to a high percentage of short fibres, which will likely pill more.

Number of ply: Look for two-ply cashmere garments, where two threads of yarn are twisted together to give a more resistant knit. Single-ply cashmere will be less durable and might develop holes more easily. Two-ply also means that the sweater will be knitted more tightly, therefore being softer and warmer. Brands should say how much ply they have used in the garment, if not check how tight the knitting is and you should get a feeling.

Origin of fibres: Not all the cashmere goats are created equal. Some live in areas where temperature variation is higher, therefore their fibres are finer and more premium. Inner Mongolia is generally seen as the best origin, due to harsher winters and the better diet of the goats.

Colours of fibres: Before dyeing, fibres come in three natural colours: white, brown and beige. As you would expect, whiter cashmere fibres require less dye to generate specific colours, therefore reducing the negative impact that colouring has on its natural softness. High-end yarn spinners utilise a much higher proportion of white fibres for all colours, not only the lighter shades.

• Type of fibres: Fibres can be divided into virgin and recycled. The former are made into yarns for the first time, while the latter come from waste or old fabrics, either already used by customers or from unsold items. Recycled fibres are much less durable, less soft and itchier. The very cheap jumpers from mass chains usually are made with recycled fibres, either entirely or in big proportions.
  

  Knit: Even when the cashmere yarn is of great provenance, poor knitting will negatively affect the final product both in terms of look and touch. The better knitting can be recognised by a tighter knit. Try to stretch a part of the jumper and see if it goes back in shape easily. Products knitted in Italy or Scotland are usually a safer option compared to ones made in China, however, it also depends on the individual companies so only choose brands that you trust.

• Cashmere comes from hairs and can therefore be washed in water, either by hand or washing machine

• Hand-washing with cool water (30°C) is the best method

• Always turn the garment inside out

• Use a delicate washing detergent (8+ Ph) or specialist cashmere wool wash (like Woolite), which usually also includes some softener

• You can also use baby shampoo to give extra softness and maintain a soft and fluffy texture

• Do not bleach

• If you have a washing machine with a hand-wash cycle, this will also work; just make sure to set it to a cool temperature (30°C) and short cycle (no more than 30 minutes); you can spin dry as usual but do not leave the garment inside the machine afterwards

• Dry-cleaning is also fine, just ask for delicate detergent

How to dry and iron cashmere once washed:

• Do not wring the garment – remove excess water by gently pressing with a towel

• Lay the garment on a flat surface and stretch it while damp to its original shape

• Never hang cashmere garments to dry, they will stretch and lose shape

• Let it dry at room temperature over an airer, avoiding sunlight

• Iron at low temperature, using a pressing cloth as a divider; never iron directly onto the fabric

Maintenance and storage:

• Never hang cashmere garments in your wardrobe, always fold them when storing, otherwise, they might lose shape

• When not used for an extended period, place inside a dust bag or sealable garment container to protect it from moths; place lavender or moth balls inside

• In case of pilling remove it with a cashmere comb or with a shaving machine, which will make the garment like new; better to remove pilling after washing and drying, never on wet or damp fabric

• Protect from contact with Nylon (for instance with seat belts or inside jackets) which can damage the fibres

When you invest in great cashmere products, you are stepping up the longevity and luxury of your wardrobe, by adding items with several unique properties. These garments will keep their quality and shape longer than wool knitwear, therefore earning back your initial investment over the years, and giving you a lower cost per wear.

Some people might be fooled into buying very affordable cashmere from a big chain, but once you look at what you are buying, it becomes clear that the money is not always well spent. The product will look drastically different after a few washes.

The best yarns, from companies like Cariaggi, with the whitest, longest and finest fibres cost up to 200 euros per kg and brands need circa 300 grams for a single jumper. Once you add in the cost of knitting and finishing, it becomes clear that anyone selling jumpers at very low prices took some shortcuts.

The only problem with cashmere is that its luxury and softness are addictive. Once you try it, it will be difficult to go back to normal wool.